I once again climbed the Spanish Steps - albeit rather slowly. I have since learned that that is what the designer of the steps intended. He planned wide spaces and a rather meandering movement in order for people to enjoy the climb, and rest along the way. We took a round about jaunt up and down the streets of that neighborhood in order for Profesore Stoughton to point out items of interest pertaining to 17th century Baroque art.
 |
| Sarah & Charis on Spanish Steps |
We came to the Casino Ludovisi where we had an appointment to see Guercino's Aurora and Tithonius with Allegories of Night and day. This is a private residence that is open to the public on certain Fridays - for a fee. Our instructor had told us about the very elegant Principessa who had recently married the current Prince Ludovisi. (All titles were done away with in Italy during Napoleon's time but in conversation the titles are still used out of courtesy.) This new Princess hails from Texas, USA and brought a lot of wealth into the match which it appears she is using to restore the grandeur of the old home. On a previous visit our insructor had met her and she was so gracioius and charming he was hoping we might get the opportunity as well.
It wasn't long before she did arrive in the room we were visiting and introductions were made. She was a vivacious woman in her 60's, tall, well groomed and very well poised. She took us on a personal tour of the place and told us stories of her husbands ancestors. ("The Savoys became royalty because they were more vicious even though they were only dukes and not princes.") We were shown into some of the private areas that were being restored to see a Caravaggio ceiling painting and other master paintings. Then she showed us the table at which Cardinal Ludovisi had entertained his Uncle, Pope Gregory XV. In the next room there were the chairs they used to sit in. She said, "Who wants to sit in those chairs? Come now, don't be shy. I'll take your picture." So we all had a turn sitting in the Cardinal and Popes chairs of state with the Princess taking our picture. It was quite a riot! She was obviously having so much fun sharing her inherited history and having us appreciate it too.
 |
| Charis and me sitting in state in the papal chairs |
From there we rode a bus across town to a church which was established in the 3rd century A.D. redecorated in the 12th century and contained an important sculpture of St. Cecilia from the early 17th century. The final excursion was to see Bramante's Tiempietto which is a late Renaissance piece. To get to it meant a lot of uphill walking culminating in a grueling set of stairs cut into the hill that made the Spanish Steps seem mild by comparison. I can hardly believe I made it! I was not the only one struggling either. Once we got up there it comanded a grand view of the city and the architecture known as Tiempietto was very interesting to see.
 |
| 1st part of steps up to the Janiculum |
 |
| view from the top of the Janiculum |
Class was dismissed and we all went our separate ways. Some were traveling to Florence and others to Sorrento. We have chosen to remain in Rome instead of taking other excursions. Instead we found the Botanical Gardens and had a very peaceful afternoon meandering among exotic shrubbery and flowers. We trekked back to the apartment and my feet and hips were letting me know they didn't appreciate the abuse I'd heaped on them all day! It looked like we'd get drenched before making it to the apartment because huge thunderclouds were forming and sounding threatening. But so far no rain.
 |
| lunch at cafe |
All in all this was a very interesting and satisfying day in Rome.
Sounds like a lot of fun!
ReplyDelete